Zihuatanejo to Patzcuaro to Morelia

We pulled out of El Manglar at 10:00 for the drive/climb to the town of Patzcuaro, in the high country of Michoacan. Alongside the huge artificial lake that provides hydroelectric power for the state the trip was cooler than in previous years, even the area known as Infernillo was quite pleasant, the only hint of the usual scorching heat was the landscape, though this was somewhat greener than normal due probably to the recent unseasonable rain. The lake also seemed to be at a higher level than we remembered.

This lake has wonderful tourism potential, (it is somewhat reminiscent of Lake Powell in the United States). At the moment there are several tiny fishing villages and not much else.

We arrived at El Pozo RV Park somewhere around 2:00 PM. (Neither of us bothered to check the time--like it matters.) Were quickly parked in our favourite spot at the bottom of the field; not the best location for the sun because of the tall trees to the east but the best for the dogs, there being no other rigs between us and the fence—a nice open grassy area. The solar panels aren't clear of shadow until about 11:00A.M. the west side of the park is in shadow shortly after noon due to the tall trees on that side so that side isn't ideal either. We loose the sun mid afternoon but there is adequate though not great electric power so we don't really need the solar energy.

Temperatures here are MUCH lower than at the coast—long pants, long sleeves and sweatshirts are the norm except during mid day. Lows are around 10^c while highs are in the low 20's. Quite pleasant except when we first get up in the morning—furnace time!--and evenings can be cool; certainly sweater or jacket time.

Friday-Home in 5 weeks!

Today we wandered around the village, had lunch, bought a few things and checked out a new RV Park. We are quite familiar with Patzcuaro and the surrounding area and like it very much. We enjoyed our relaxing day.

Saturday afternoon we drove into Morelia, the State Capitol, to meet our friends Jorge and Lulu, and Sergio and Leonore, whom we first met in Zihuatanejo three years ago. The two families vacation in the El Manglar RV Park during the Christmas/New Year holidays and we have gotten to know them well.

We stopped at the large Walmart shopping centre near the junction of the road from Patzcuaro and the Periferico (Ring Road) when we went to the ATM to recharge the wallets and surprisingly, found we could add time to Art's cell phone. We just had to take this picture, which could have been taken just about anywhere at home. Within sight were Walmart, Office Depot, McDonalds, Pizza Hut and Scotia bank.

One of the ATM options was “Buy cell phone time” a click gives the choice of cell phone carriers. Another click here to select the carrier (ie Telcel), the amount of pesos, enter the phone number, and your cell account is instantly credited and your bank account instantly debited! Art's cel beeped with a text message confirming the update before he had left the bank machine! This can also be done at many supermarket cashiers. So easy.

Art was driven to reload the cell phone again when he ran out of time while talking to Jorge that morning. He had run low of time Thursday calling Jorge and had added 100 pesos then. Now he was out of time again! We soon realised that long distance charges are very high—25 pesos per minute! Patzcuaro and Morelia are obviously not close enough for local call rates. Interestingly enough, even though we both have Zihuatanejo phone numbers, if we call a Morelia phone while in Morelia local rates apply. Unlike in Canada, where if you are out of your local calling area every call is long distance.

From the Wallmart parking lot we called Jorge and Lulu again for directions. They suggested that they meet us at the Planetario, just off the Periferico and near their home. The planitario was shown on our very basic Morelia street map we were using and we thought that the GPS, which showed street names would make it easy. HA!

We pulled off the road into a Pemex after traveling what we later realised had been almost ¾ of the way around the Perifirico, knowing that we had missed our turn as we were now driving North West instead of East! The cell phone rang, it was Lulu--“where are you?” “Perdido!” (lost!) we replied! We received instructions for what to watch for as we retraced our steps, made the turnoff just as Lulu phoned again,and while we were talking spotted Sam's Club ahead. Sam's had been an original suggestion as to where to meet as it was very close to their home, but it wasn't on our map. At any rate, they arrived in minutes and we followed them through a residential area to their home. Our biggest frustration was the glaring absence of street signs. By far most intersections had no street names posted!

We pulled into their attached garage and were able to let the dogs out, through the house and into the garden.

Soon daughter Lulu and Granddaughter Mariana arrived followed by another couple, Sergio y Leonore whom we had also met at El Manglar. Not far behind was another couple, Felipe and his wife (who's name I am ashamed to admit I have forgotten). Filipe is a Canadian, now also a Mexican citizen as are his kids--some who live in Canada. Filipe has lived in Mexico I think some 25 years, his Spanish in near perfect. Perfect to our ears, but his wife says on occasion there may be a word here and there where she can detect a not quite perfect Mexican pronunciation.

The dogs, particularly Trekker, were quickly overwhelmed with the company and were sent to their room (the car) where they are quite at home and soon went to sleep.

We all piled into a couple of vehicles for a tour of Centro. Here are a few pictures. The Hotel Virrey is still one of the top hotels in the city.





Mariana, Leonor, Lulu (daughter), Sergio

Cathedral,

Church were Jorge and Lulu were married







All tired out we returned to the house where we all had dinner. The meal consisted of typical Mexican and Michoacan (the State) cuisine--at this late date I don't remember the details but know that we enjoyed ourselves immensely.








Finally it was time to go. The dogs hadn't had their dinner though Jorge had accompanied us on a doggy walk to a long narrow park where he used to exercise his doberman. Lulu was horrified that we planned to drive back to Patzcuaro and told us that we really should stay in their guest room. The lack of dog food prevailed and we were soon on our way, Jorge guiding us to the periferico. Lulu made us promise that next time we would come prepared to stay the night!

We had no problems, made a stop for gas and were back at El Pozo by 11:30

Sunday morning was time to fill the water tanks and empty the sewer tanks so we would be prepared to leave Monday morning. The water here is very silty so Art used all three filters plus a dose of bleach to fill the fresh water tank. This made it slow going. So slow in fact that he gave up and took the 0.5micron ceramic filter off line. When done he then lay the hoses in the sun for a while to warm so they could be coiled into their containers, then suddenly it was past time to phone Yesi .

We made arrangements as to where and when to meet and were off once again to the city. We caught up with her at one of the sidewalk cafes opposite the cathedral and had a very good time chatting and catching up. It has been great watching this young lady grow up. When we first met her she was less than 3 years old, now she is a confident young university student with a great future ahead of her.

We all piled into the car--Gillian in the back with the dogs and tried the GPS to get us to Yesi's home. We missed one turn but got there without too much difficulty then entered the location as a way point so we can find it next year. She may be able to visit us in Zihuatanejo next year, Art will be able to drive up and back in the same day to pick her up so she won't have to put up with the long bus ride.

We decided to stay another day and drive around the lake. So of course Monday morning we slept in. We had some laundry to do and finally hit the road at about 1:00PM, driving part way around Lago Patzcuaro, revisiting ruins that we had seen in previous years.





We carried on to the market town of Quiroga, where we had a bit of lunch at another delightful restaurant we happened upon, did a bit of shopping in the market then returned to El Pozo.






In the market we found way too much stuff! Beautiful and inexpensive. As an example, in the right hand photo below the casserole pots were forty pesos for the large ones and 30 for the next size down. At twelve pesos to the dollar!














We are still taken by the landscape here—this whole area is a series of high mountain valleys surrounding Lago Patzcuaro, a shallow lake that still produces a lot of fish for local markets and restaurants. The land is well suited for the farming which along with crafts and tourism drives the economy.





Back at the park we met new arrivals Ruth and Rick from Massachusetts and passed an interesting happy hour with them. Maybe we'll be able to connect again with them up later this year on our 'round North America trip.