Monday, 2 August 2010
Fairbanks, Paddlewheeler on the river
6:00 AM the alarm went off and we staggered out of bed. Breakfast and dog feeding and walking we set off for the Riverboat Discovery cruise We found that there was lots of room in the parking lot for the rig, in fact they had a separate RV lot--which was mostly occupied by cars!
We opened the windows and roof vents and again left the poor dogs to themselves. We entered the main building, picked up our tickets and made our way unscathed through the gift shop to the docks.
Just a note to blog readers that may be concerned about us leaving the dogs in the car and motorhome at times. We travel with them extensively in Mexico where outside temperatures frequently reach the high 80's and are aware of how our vehicles do in the sun. We have patent reflective shading materials for the car that we use when necessary and if we are ever in doubt the dogs don't stay unattended. The car is also equipped with a thermometer that can be seen from the front window. Windows are equipped with mesh instead of glass and plastic and the top is left open. The motorhome has of course a much larger air volume and is equipped with two efficient extractor fans that move a lot of air. We also always let a responsible person nearby know that the dogs are there.
Our vessel was the Discovery II, converted from a freighting sternwheeler in the 70's if memory serves right. The larger Discovery III (top picture) that followed us out was purpose built an excursion vessel.
As we pulled out into the Chena River we were treated to a float plane demonstration including a very short take-off and a side-slip landing. The Piper Super Cub then taxied near the boat while our guide spoke to the pilot by radio.
By the way, we were told that riverfront land up here sells for $100,000 per acre. Any takers?
The tiny Cripple Creek in the photo was one of the richest in the north. $340,000,000 million dollars of gold was taken from this area between 1891 and 1916, when gold was $20.00 an ounce! There has been another $90,000,000 taken since! Total amount of gold: 625 tons of pure gold!
There are some beautiful homes along the riverbanks old new and in between. The small new log house was hand built by one man who hand peeled and placed every spruce log himself. A five year project. The old house was built by an old Athabascan who now lives in a nursing home. The house, built entirely of local native materials, is being dismantled. The new owners want to build something new.
Along the way we made several stops; the first was to visit with the husband of the late Susan Butcher, Alaska's most famous musher. She died very young ov leukemia leaving two small daughters and about one hundred dogs. She set the new standard of training sled dogs with kindness and set record after record. She was the first female musher and made her mark and left a fine legacy.
The cruise was supposed to enter the Yukon River before turning back up the Chena but at the junction the captain realised that the water had changed a lot since yesterday and the channel was now obstructed by a new gravel island. The deepest water appeared to be only a couple of feet deep. Since we had a 31" draft there was only one thing to do: return.
The silt is mostly very fine silicates and mica. So fine that it does not interfere with the respiration of the salmon that will soon be in these rivers to spawn.
Our next stop was at a native fish camp display. This was an excellent re-creation of the way the Athabasca people lived. There was a working fish wheel; a mechanical water driven wheel that turned in the water scooping fish up into a waiting basket, drying racks, smokehouse, cabins, tents, temporary hunting camps, clothing etc.
The guides, all either native Athabascan or Esquimo, were entertaining and informative. Most if not all are university students home for the summer. One spoke of the use of cariboo, or reindeer. They are almost the same species, the only difference is where they live--reindeer live behind a fence! And of course, she added, they can fly! Reindeer, or cariboo, hair is hollow and filled with air and thus an excellent insulator. The warmest of furs.
Tools, equipment and clothing was discussed and explained, the staff obviously enjoying their work. When one young lady appeared in the hat pictured the guide collapsed in laughter saying "where did you get that thing?" It was a souvenir shop's idea of northern head gear.
This winter coat is authentic and sports what is aptly called a sunshine bonnet.
Here are a few more photos of our visit here.
On the return we passed the original Discovery, moored in front of the family home. This family company began many years ago as a freighting business and when aircraft began to take over the movement of freight and passengers they thought to try tourism. Today the 5th generation is in the business.
Back in the parking lot Gillian took the dogs out for a short walk while Art got the ladder of the back of the rig and climbed up to straighten a ham radio antenna that had obviously caught on a tree somewhere as it was projection off the side at a 45 degree angle instead of a nice efficient vertical. We left the parking lot at 12:30
We realised we had neglected to take a picture of the rock in Fairbanks so went off in search of suitable spot. We were driving the motorhome with car attached so finding a place to park might have presented a problem. Fortunately it was a weekend so office parking lots were empty. We finally settled on the Fairbanks Police Department!
Once we had our pic it was time to find our way out of town and we were soon eastbound on the Richardson Highway to Delta Junction, the Alaska Highway and Tok.
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